Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Full Moon in Dharamsala!

Is a picture really worth a thousand words? Could this one possibly express how happy I am to be here in Dharamsala, surrounded by kind and compassionate people, eating good healthy food, listening to enlightening and encouraging teachings by the most learned of teachers, breathing the clean mountain air, and looking up at the Himalayans morning, day, and night? I am having an incredible time. I feel so fortunate to be here.

Tomorrow the Dalai Lama will begin his teachings. The vibration of travelers is increasing, as more and more people come to Mcleod Ganj. I'm not sure, but you might be able to listen to the teachings online- It's worth looking into! I think I might not put much effort into maintaining this blog while I am here (then again, I might if I get the urge)... but, I am quite safe, comfortable in accomadation and food, and very happy. I extend my love and best to you all, and hope you are well also!

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Happy Journey from the South Western Railway

Here are my trip details, mostly for my parents, all in IST (subtract 10.5 hrs for EST):
  • Thursday, Feb 14th: Mysore-Bangalore, Train No 2008 Dep: 14:20 (3 hrs) class:2AC
  • Thursday, Feb 14th: Bangalore-Delhi, Train No 2429, Rajdhani Express, Dep: 20:20 (35 hrs) 2AC
  • Saturday, Feb 16th: Delhi- Pathankot, Train No 4033, Jammu Mail, Dep 21:20 (12 hrs) 2AC
  • Sunday, Feb 17th: Arrive in Pathankot, 7 am IST, 8:30 pm Saturday EST (Will try to call home sometime thereafter!)
Then depending on whether I'm completely road weary or not, I will continue on to Dharamsala by bus on either Sunday afternoon or Monday morning. I ought to see a lot of the countryside, eh?! I've got several good books that I'm taking with me, and I'm going around town today to make trip preparations. Tonight the family I've been staying with is having a going-away party for me. So, wish me luck! I'm looking forward to the trip (I guess I better be, cause it's going to be a long one!) and will let you know how it goes!

om shanti shanti shanti

Today was my last day of practice in Mysore. What follows is the closing prayer or Mangala Mantra, an ancient Vedic chant traditionally recited at the end of ceremonies. Its recitation at the end of a yoga practice symbolizes offering the merits of your practice for the benefit of the world. I am thankful for my time spent here in Mysore, and am excited about the next leg of my trip! Train details to follow.

om
svashti prajaa bhayha parii palaa yantam
nayaa yenaa margenaa maahii mahishha

go brahmanebhyaahaa
shubhaamastu nityam
lokaa samasthaa sukhino bhavanhtu

om shaanti shaanti
shaanti


translation:

Om
May all be well with mankind.
May the leaders of the earth protect in every way by keeping to the right path.
May there be goodness for all those who know the earth to be sacred.
May the people of the world be happy and prosperous.
Om, Peace, Peace, Peace.


Me and Guruji, Sri K. Pattabhi Jois

Me and Saraswati

Sunday, February 10, 2008

APPY BIRTHING DAY!


Yesterday I went to Bylakuppe, a Tibetan settlement about 45km from Mysore that houses more than 10,000 refugees. The settlement is surrounded by agriculture- lots of coconuts and cows- and radiates a slower friendly pace of life. We visited several monasteries, but did not see nearly as many monks as you might normally expect due to the celebration of Losar, the Tibetan New Year. The temples were filled with the chirping songs of birds instead of the prayers of monks, and since they were relatively empty we were able to spend as much time as we liked immersed in the incredible art work and sculptures without feeling like we were bothering anyone. I am really looking forward to visiting Dharmsala and seeing a Tibetan monastery in action now that I've seen one on holiday. Here are a few of my favorite pictures!

Oh yes, and yesterday was my birthday. I woke up and hadn't thought about it until Hannah wished me well on my way out the door for yoga. I guess it wasn't technically my birthday yet at that hour though because I was born in EST. So I've been celebrating all morning today too. I had a beautiful gulab jamoon for dessert last night instead of a cake. That is, a fried doughball floating in sugar syrup........ sounds horrid, but is really so wonderful that Hannah and I took almost 10 minutes to eat them as we traded a spoon back and forth in the dark -power failure- taking tiny savory bites and murmuring with delight.

Thanks for the good-wishes!

THE POST OFFICE; or one adventure in a long string of others.


What you are looking at here is the final product of a full day's hard-wrought glory, my sweat and tears (well, tears might be an exaggeration) in box form. How this shining parcel came into being is another story, full of adventure and misadventure, rickshaw rides and head-wobble responses. I am proud of this box, and look forward to seeing it again in 3 months.

Here is a stack of 10 or so books that I purchased from the Bihar School of Yoga for 1,000 RS or $25 USD. I checked on amazon.com and found the same titles for $15-20 each... so YES, it was a steal, and even more so for the wonderful Indian adventure that I had to endure (am I contradicting myself?) to get them packaged and ready to send home. Even with the cost of multiple rickshaw rides, tailor-made packaging, international shipping, and the ice cream sundae that I had to buy to boost my blood sugar levels just in order to persevere (a purely medical motivation, I assure you).... I STILL got a deal, and assuming that they arrive at their destination, I look forward to this stack of books. I will share them with you, if you think you might enjoy them too. They range in topics from the Hatha Yoga Pradipika, Asana Pranayama, the Moola Bandha, Tantra Meditation, the Upanishads....etc etc. Books in India are a good deal, but they aren't so good for back packing.

Hannah had some mailing to do too and we thought it would be nice to do it together. We located packing supplies and then headed to the post office. After waiting in line and musing over the associated rules of orderliness (which no one seemed to learn as a child here) we finally made it to the window where our questions were not answered and we were turned back out into the blazing afternoon. We found a tailor down the street and around the corner and asked if they prepared packages for shipping. All outgoing packages must be wrapped and sewn in a white linen cloth and to get the discounted book rate, this must be done while leaving a window to expose the contents for inspection. Try explaining that to a deaf/mute tailor in a shop where no one speaks English anyways. Many hand gestures and doodles later (I drew a house and pointed repeatedly to the window and to the windows in the shop, making a square with my hands, insisting on some foreign sounding word "window, window!" and pointing at the end of the package... and finally grabbed a piece of cardboard and the seamstress' scissors, cut one out myself, held it to the side of the package, and wrapped my fingers around my eyes in spectacle fashion again pointing to the end of the box).... "Ahhhhhhh, window!" "YES, WINDOW!!!" hey, smiles all around, thumbs up, A-OK's, YES, we have communication! And what a nice man he was! For the next 10 minutes as he worked away I got smiles and thumbs up's one after another from him and from everyone else in the shop. He was quite proud of his work. He charged me too much 120 RS or $3, but "Sure," I said, "because I like you!" This comment led me to much embarrassment as I now had to explain to everyone in the room and especially to his wife (pictured in red) that no, I don't mean I like him, I understand that they're married, I just mean he's a nice man! I appreciate his efforts! Thank you for the work and I'll be leaving now!

So, we took our boxes and set off for the post office once again. I was worried that my package would never make it around the world with a big hole in the side, so I ducked into a supermarket (1 of 2 that I've seen in India) and bought a roll of packing tape to secure my window! Back to the post office, and wouldn't you know that they close each day at 2:30. I don't blame them, it was hot in there, in fact the sweat was dripping off me when I'd waited before, kind of like the way it was dripping off me again as I stood there with my shining parcel squinting up at the big padlocks on the iron door.

So now the box sits patiently next to my door in my room, waiting for me to summon up my patience and errand-running gusto once again. All in all, it was a great experience, and one that I am lucky to relive in sometimes small, and sometimes grand ways, each and every day. Today I will return to the train station to try to exchange a train ticket, no small feat, I am sure. WISH ME LUCK. (!)

Sunday, February 3, 2008

THE WEEK


I am busy trying to upload full-sized photos to a public web album- it's taking a while, but it should be up and viewable in the next 24 hours. You can access it and future albums at http://picasaweb.google.com/jayerhodes by clicking here or on the link that I've added to the top of this blog! It's Sunday morning here in Gokulam and the day is starting to heat up already. I've got a cold, which makes the mid-afternoon somewhat miserable, but I'm working hard on the cure with Emergen-C, plenty of fresh coconuts, and rest. Today is a day off from practice, but Hannah and I got up early to watch the advanced student's led class of the secondary series, an impressive and extremely humbling sequence to watch. While I am trying to build up my arms to do a proper pushup, they are busy defying the laws of gravity.

I am starting to get used to life here in Mysore. The city is starting to feel smaller and less intimidating, as I've gotten used to getting around by rickshaw and started to understand the orientation of the markets and such. This week I toured the Mysore Palace, ambling along slowly in order to take in the architecture, royal portraits, sculpture, crystal thrones, vaulted painted and stained glass ceilings, temples, and gardens. There are some exterior pictures to the right- no cameras allowed inside. Nicole and I also went to the temple on the top of Chamundi Hill (1000 stone steps above the city!) overlooking all of Mysore where I ate my first street food, Vada masala, and had to stamp my feet to chase away monkeys that wanted my snack for themselves. In order to go into the temples you have to check your shoes outside and then skirt around the cow pies between you and the gate. I scarcely missed one.

I think about my mom and my sisters a lot throughout the day as I find joy in things that I sometimes think would appall them. It's funny, I remember reading before I came here that if you visited India for a week or less, you'd likely find it very unappealing, but if you stayed for any length of time you'd develop a tricky love affair. I think there's a lot a truth to that. I relish in personal satisfaction as I sit cross-legged at my meals shoveling rice into my mouth with my fingers knowing that there are no napkins available to put in my lap. I laugh as I throw all my previous manners (that I never adhered to very well in the first place) out the window, wipe the sweat from my brow with the back of my hand, and ask for more samba (spicy!) curry and chutney please. Here in India it seems fairly obvious that we are not very far from the dirt we came from. There's only so much distance you can put between yourself and that dirt- most of the time you just have to embrace it, appreciate the beauty rising out of the mire, and for the necessary moments, carry your own soap with you.

Highlights from the week: The peacock painted ceiling and temples at the Mysore Palace, the Nandi Bull statue below the main temple on Chamundi Hill, Lunch at the Indian Song House (see the plate-licking picture below), strolling around the university lake, watching Rambo II in the theater, kirtan singing, and a birthday party for the kids that live across the street.



MMmmm mmm good.
(Partners in crime)